Voyager XII Alternate Fuel Pump

These pages compliments of Jeff Barnhill

Thanks Jeff from the Voyager community

Alternative/Emergency Fuel Pump for the Kawasaki Voyager
I had an early failure (December 23 1999)of my fuel pump after only about 2 months after owning it the bike. I had no owners manual and knew nothing about it. But being very Electrically and Electronically inclined it took only about 10 minutes to locate the pump and find how it worked. There was an ice storm at the time so I wasn't going anywhere

The dealer which is a long time friend ordered one from Kawasaki.
(Two weeks delivery around Christmas time) I was told by the service manager that this one that failed was the second one that was put on it. The other was by the original dealer in Ruston Louisiana, who also put an igniter on it. The Voyager is a 1995 but wasn't bought new until Spring of 1997. The owner got rid of it because it left him stranded on more than one occasion.I knew there was a reason for the failure but it took me a few years to really discover it. After the weather warmed up I went looking at the local NAPA parts house to see if they had or listed a low pressure 12 volt fuel pump. They had one the next day. It was Carter P74012 made by Airtex (3-5 psi). It used only a ground wire and a 12+. I ran this setup a month before I took it off and replaced it with the Mitsubishi made pump. The Kawasaki Mitsubishi pump lasted 3 months. It came off and I wired the NAPA pump in place and put 25,000 Miles on it before I had a problems with fumes.
Total Kawasaki Fuel pumps 3.

The Kawasaki pump wiring involves four wires.
Black with Yellow stripe is main ground.
Solid black connects to the pickup coil going to ignition coil 1&4
Red wire is 12+ from the run switch on the handlebar with ignition switch on and run switch on.
Black/White stripped wire comes from starter relay.

The pump motor itself has only a 12+ and a ground. It uses Diodes and Resistors to isolate the starting circuit from the run circuit.
There is an inline pressure switch connected to the points.(Ford Courier/Mazda used this bad system. The Courier many times after shutting down the engine wouldn't restart, or it would go dead after running the fuel out of the carburetor, you would either beat on the side of the pump were the points were located or remove them to file. Even after they went to a solid state system, this setup caused problems.

The diaphragm fuel pump, either electric or mechanical uses a spring that will collapse at a preset pressure preventing more flow. The floats in the Carburetors close causing the rise in pressure to make the spring collapse.

The starting circuit on the Voyager uses the Black/Yellow stripped Ground wire and the 12+ Black/White stripped wire from the starter relay to send gas to the carburetors while spinning the motor over if the carburetors are low. If the floats are closed the pressure switch will prevent more gas.

The run circuit consists of the Red 12+ wire from the handlebar run switch and the Black wire going to the pickup coil connection. It provides a pulse to ground while the bike is running.It will not pump if the engine quits.

It wasn't until after fumes were causing my eyes to water on trips of 400 miles or more I began to check pressures. It was running close to 4.5 psi. Nobody could tell me the proper pressure but I knew a gravity fed system would be 1 psi or less.

I took the original plug I cut off of the bike and took a light and magnifying glass to it. What I saw was a burnt pin. It was the one going to the pickup coil and pulsed to ground to make the pump run while the bike is running. My guess is that the bad connection created a surge on the circuit and blew one of the Diodes causing an open circuit to the pump on the run circuit. It looks like either bad pins  connectors, or too small of wire led to the problem

When I told the service manager what I had learned he told me they ordered a pump for a Vulcan 1500 which is the same and never saw the Vulcan again. I decided to hard wire it(Solder) and try it. It hasn't missed a beat in another 25,0000 miles I've put on it.

The pressure on the new pump was 1-1-1/2 psi. A lot lower than the 4.5 the Carter was pushing. No more fumes. I bought a Holly pressure regulator to go with the Carter pump in case of a breakdown. It is adjustable from 1-4 psi. I have it set for the Voyager although in an emergency the other worked for a little over 25,000 miles before fumes.


To get to the pump remove the single bolt (10mm head) mounting the rear brake master cylinder.
Remover the two bolts holding the pump
Remove coolant overflow tank and pinch off fuel line to tank.
Pump will come out the right side.


Factory pump pic 1

Factory pump pic 2

Factory pumb pigtail pic 1

Factory pump pigtail pic 2

Fuel Filter

Aftermarket pump

Pump bracket

Pump installed in bracket

Pump reinstalled

Aftermarket regulator